Skip to main content
For South Asia, fashion and consumption have come to play an increasingly important role in the lives of young people and in the formation of youth cultures. Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka... more
For South Asia, fashion and consumption have come to play an increasingly important role in the lives of young people and in the formation of youth cultures. Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka have all been producing a market of confident young fashion consumers.
This book explores South Asian youth cultures and fashion across this region and its diasporas from a transnational perspective, revealing the changing landscapes of contemporary South Asian fashion.
Through visual and textual analysis of film, photography and digital cultures, as well as ethnographic fieldwork, the book looks at how gender, sexuality, class, the media and faith intersect. It challenges tendencies to homogenise the region's diverse cultural modernity by establishing the heterogenous nature of South Asia and its youth cultures.
Download (.pdf)
Download (.pdf)
Chapter Nineteen in: Friendship as Social Justice Activism, Critical Solidarities in a Global Perspective (2018). University of Chicago Press/Seagull India. Through in-depth interviews, this conversational essay documents the unique... more
Chapter Nineteen in: Friendship as Social Justice Activism, Critical Solidarities in a Global Perspective (2018). University of Chicago Press/Seagull India.

Through in-depth interviews, this conversational essay documents the unique stories of Alia, Mussamat, Jessmin, three garment factory workers and members of the National Federation of Garment Workers (NFGW) in Dhaka, Bangladesh. These individuals share their anecdotal journeys of friendship and engagement with social change to make the ready-made-garment sector in Bangladesh sustainable in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza (April 2013) and Tazreen (November 2012) Ltd factory disasters. Through stories of friendship networks and resilience, this piece draws attention to the paradox of how the ready-made-garment sector in Bangladesh empowers workers as they speak up against global market forces of uncertain work conditions and low paid production to make it a safer, sustainable and fairer place to work.

This anthology is the first of its kind in bringing together academics and activists in conversations about friendship, love and desire as kinetics for social justice movements. The contributors come from across the globe and are involved in diverse movements such as LGBTQ rights; intimate-partner violence; recovery from addiction; and housing, migrant, labour and environmental justice activism. Each narrates how living and organizing within circles of friendship offer new ways of dreaming and struggling for social justice. Recent scholarship in different disciplinary fields as well as activist literature have brought attention to the political possibilities within friendship.

The essays, memoirs, poems and artwork in this volume address these political possibilities within the context of gender, sexuality and economic justice movements - Sunandini Banerjee
Download (.pdf)
The International Journal of Fashion Studies is a scientific peer-reviewed journal that fosters the worldwide diffusion of Fashion Studies. Fashion Studies is an interdisciplinary field of research that has been producing an extensive... more
The International Journal of Fashion Studies is a scientific peer-reviewed journal that fosters the worldwide diffusion of Fashion Studies. Fashion Studies is an interdisciplinary field of research that has been producing an extensive repertoire of theories, analyses and enquiries.

ISSN 20517106 , ONLINE ISSN 20517114

Volumes and Issues edited:
4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 6.1 and 6.2
Through the filmic lens of West Bengali director Satyajit Ray’s masterpiece The Big City (Mahanagar 1963), this article focuses on the symbolic meaning of the bra in postcolonial India. It reveals the ways in which the semi-hidden bra in... more
Through the filmic lens of West Bengali director Satyajit Ray’s masterpiece The Big City (Mahanagar 1963), this article focuses on the symbolic meaning of the bra in postcolonial India. It reveals the ways in which the semi-hidden bra in the film functions as a contested site of patriarchal Indian modernity versus Euro-Western modernity and, in the style of neorealist cinema, a utopia of postcolonial and postnational feminine agency. Through textual analysis, the article delves into the influences of Italian neorealist cinema on Ray’s aesthetic choices and compares power, dress and femininity across western and non-western contexts. It articulates cultural similarities and differences and how dream-like cinematic narratives of everyday practices of power dressing provide a window into neoliberal performativity and utopian ambitions for feminine agency during periods of modernization and change.
This paper documents how the British Bangladeshi diaspora in the UK has been collaborating to contribute to the growth of the creative sector in the UK and in Bangladesh. Through case studies from the creative-start-up of Oitij-jo... more
This paper documents how the British Bangladeshi diaspora in the UK has been collaborating to contribute to the growth of the creative sector in the UK and in Bangladesh. Through case studies from the creative-start-up of Oitij-jo (February 2013) and subsequently the planning of its second project ‘AKHON: Where is Bengal Now’, this paper charts the collaborations between the culture and creative industries of Bengali heritage (film, photography, theatre, dance, music, art, architecture, textiles and fashion) involved in the project between 2013 and 2016. The authors question widely used policy notions of ‘the creative class’ and ‘creative clustering’ and explore the collaborative economy model for the growth of Bangladeshi cultural and creative industries. Using infographics and netnographic interviews, the paper maps out advantages and disadvantages of collaboration linked to digital and non-digital peer-to-peer skills sharing and entrepreneurship. It concludes with the next steps for Oitij-jo and discusses the managerial implications for sustainability of its future projects.
Download (.pdf)
This photo essay illustrates the Jamdani Project, a journey of intergenerational and transnational learning through making, creating and playing. This project was initiated by the not-for-profit social innovation organisation The Muslin... more
This photo essay illustrates the Jamdani Project, a journey of intergenerational and transnational learning through making, creating and playing. This project was initiated by the not-for-profit social innovation organisation The Muslin Trust and the Outreach Team at the London College of Fashion with funding from Awards for All and Big Lottery Fund England. The project bought together young students (aged between 16 and 18) from diverse communities across London and invited them into LCF’s fashion studios at Mare Street (in east London) to experiment and engage with sustainable fashion and textiles.

Open Access: https://sparkjournal.arts.ac.uk/index.php/spark/article/view/9/26
Download (.pdf)
Short-listed for Chartered Management Institute UK (CMI)  Management Articles of the Year 2015, under the category: Facilitating Change.
Download (.pdf)
In this article we reflect on the timely dialogue which took place to address how economic growth and the expanding middle-class youth population in South Asia (Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri... more
In this article we reflect on the timely dialogue which took place to address how economic growth and the expanding middle-class youth population in South Asia (Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) influences sartorial identities. This working note is based on an ongoing research project: ‘South Asian Youth Cultures and Fashion’ and the related symposium at the London College of Fashion, which explores how South Asian sartorial identities have been previously classified and how they are changing in the face of an increasingly globalized world. The conversations which took place reiterated the very reason why the symposium was organized. Whilst there has been some study of South Asian fashion and dressing cultures within history, anthropology and its diaspora, little work has looked at the transnational implication of the changing cultural, economic and fashion education environments on dress cultures on youth.
Download (.pdf)
8.4 Gender, Sex and Romance Room: Salon 4: London Chair: Lipi Begum, University of Southampton, UK 1. Old, But Gold! The Role of Aging Stereotypes on Consumers’ Purchase Intentions in Second-Hand Marketplaces Felipe Pantoja, IESEG School... more
8.4 Gender, Sex and Romance
Room: Salon 4: London
Chair: Lipi Begum, University of Southampton, UK

1. Old, But Gold! The Role of Aging Stereotypes on Consumers’ Purchase Intentions in Second-Hand Marketplaces
Felipe Pantoja, IESEG School of Management (LEM-CNRS), France* Marat Bakpayev, University of Minnesota, Duluth, United States Patricia Rossi, IESEG School of Management (LEM-CNRS), France Sukki Yoon, Bryant University, United States
This research examines the impact of sellers’ age on consumers’ purchase intentions in online second-hand markets. Drawing on stereotypes and consumer contagion literature, we show a consistent preference for products pre-owned by senior (vs. young) sellers and investigate the mediator role of sellers’ perceived interpersonal warmth on the referred relationship.

2. Gender Identity-Related Reactions to Sex-Typed and Unisex Labeled Products
Susanne Ludwig, University of Mannheim, Germany Stefan Hattula, University of Stuttgart, Germany* Florian Kraus, University of Mannheim, Germany
Two experiments highlight gender identity’s relevance to the gender labeling-purchase intention relationship. Gender schematic consumers are indifferent between sex-typed or unisex labeling. Product’s gender expressiveness and functionality oppositely favor both options. In favor of unisex products, gender aschematics are less sensitive to gender cues, making perceived functionality the relevant mechanism.

3. He’s Just Not That Into Anyone: The Impact of Sex Fantasy on Attraction
Jingjing Ma, Peking University, China*
David Gal, University of Illinois at Chicago, USA
Sex fantasies are ubiquitous in our lives and their impact on romantic relationships is complex and controversial. One field and three lab studies show that fantasizing about sex produces a devaluation of romance which, in turn, demotivates individuals to engage in romantic relationship as the latter demands too much effort.

4. The Push and Pull of Attachment Styles on Romantic Consumption
Martin Mende, Florida State University, USA* Maura Scott, Florida State University, USA Aaron Garvey, University of Kentucky, USA Lisa Bolton, Pennsylvania State University, USA
How and why people engage in romantic consumption is not fully understood. Two studies examine the impact of attachment styles on romantic consumption (e.g., romantic movies, weddings) and find that attachment anxiety stimulates romantic consumption and attachment avoidance functions as a barrier. These effects are driven by emotional intimacy motives.
Second place globally for the thesis: Power and Postcolonial Meanings of Lingerie for Urban Indian Professional Women Living in India
.
An exhibition organised as coordinator of the the Oitij-jo Fashion Design and Textiles Collective

https://oitijjofdtc.wordpress.com

https://www.richmix.org.uk/events/exhibitions/tati-emerging-bengali-textiles-and-fashion
A special showcase of the dresses from the Jamdani Project to invited guests took place in the East London Community space the Kobi Nazrul Centre, Brick Lane. Guests included Trustees, students and community who helped make a success of... more
A special showcase of the dresses from the Jamdani Project to invited guests took place in the East London Community space the Kobi Nazrul Centre, Brick Lane. Guests included Trustees, students and community who helped make a success of the Jamdani Project. The final garments made of Jamdani where displayed alongside presentations showing how the two garments were created.
I co-organised with Dr Rohit Dasgupta the first ever international symposium on ‘South Asian Youth Cultures and Fashion’ at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, 25th September 2014. The symposium was organised to... more
I co-organised with Dr Rohit Dasgupta the first ever international symposium on ‘South Asian Youth Cultures and Fashion’ at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, 25th September 2014. The symposium was organised to initiate a dialogue on the changing landscape of contemporary dress cultures in South Asia and its implications for strategic business, design and education.
OITIJ-JO is a three-day celebration of creativity and culture rooted in Bangladesh and Bengali Culture. Participants include dancer Akram Khan; photographers Shahidul Alam and Enamul Hoque; jazz musician Zoe Rahman; singers Shapla... more
OITIJ-JO is a three-day celebration of creativity and culture rooted in Bangladesh and Bengali Culture.

Participants include dancer Akram Khan; photographers Shahidul Alam and Enamul Hoque; jazz musician Zoe Rahman; singers Shapla Salique, State of Bengal; textiles artist Rezia Wahid; world music fusion band Lokkhi Terra alongside a new generation of designers, creators, cultural commentators, craftspeople and historians.
Fashioning Diaspora: Beauty, Femininity, and South Asian American Culture. By Vanita Reddy. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2016; pp. 261, $32.95 paper; $84.50 cloth; $32.95 ebook. Book review appeared in: special issue on... more
Fashioning Diaspora: Beauty, Femininity, and South Asian American
Culture. By Vanita Reddy. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2016;
pp. 261, $32.95 paper; $84.50 cloth; $32.95 ebook.

Book review appeared in: special issue on ‘Queerness, Intersectionality, Fashion’ QED: A Journal in GLBTQ Worldmaking
4.3, Fall 2017, Michigan State University Press.